Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
